Prisms

Yesterday, my Vogue-Paris arrived, along with controversy. The cause was the pic on the left.

My sister was flipping through the magazine, saw that photo and said: "oh! that dress is hideous". I agree the frock is not wearable at all, but the silhouette is, at least, original and artistic.

She argued that in a survey the 99% of people would say the dress is horrible. Which in my opinion is a ridiculous argument; just because everyone believes it does not make it true.

Anyway, the real question is: Do you see a CLEAR difference between the criteria of those who have a deep interest in fashion and those who doesn't?

Song: Déjame - Los Secretos

Gucci by Gucci par David Lynch

Natasha Poly, Raquel Zimmerman, Freja Beha Erichsen, tons of luxury and Debbie Harry singing "Heart of glass", what is it? A TV-spot in which the cult director David Lynch manages to capture the essence of Gucci.

Inspirations

I have ambivalent feelings towards Nicolas Ghesquière's work (actually there are more ups than downs). His latest autumn/winter collection for Balenciaga, totally inspired how I wear my new pair of sandals.

Song: Cemetry gates - The Smiths

Miraculous oil

Recently, I spent some time looking for the perfect moisturizer for my oily/dry (depending on the zone) skin. Three essential characteristics were needed.

• Be cheap.
• Not tested in animals.*
• Recommended for oily skins.

Stella McCartney's skin care was my first option, but at the impossibility of finding a place to buy it, I searched a substitute. About a month ago, the Dr. Hauschka and his Normalizing Day Oil came to the rescue. So far so good. You might think an oil it's not the best option for an oily skin, but I promise it works, at least on me.

*I checked it and Clinique doesn't test on animals.

Song: Fitter Happier - Radiohead. "Careful to all animals (never washing spiders down the plughole)"

Simeon Farrar

When fashion

meets art.

"We are all artists expressing creativity through our lives." Simeon Farrar.

Song: The loneliness of a middle distance runner - Belle and Sebastian

Cocotte Couture + El delgado Buil

Pic by Sara Coe for Cocotte Couture

If you happen to be in Barcelona before the 15Th December go and see Cocotte Couture and El Delgado Buil fall collections at el Contenedor Changing Room. El Contenedor is a concept store where emerging designers have the chance to show their lines to the vast public.

You can also find Cocotte pieces at the Berlin store, Konk.

Txell Miras

I didn't covered any of the two Spanish fashion weeks, because I think they didn't worth it. But Txell Miras is the exception to that rule. Her clothes have something that attracts you, and the good tailoring helps.

Moreover, she has an impressive background. She is the designer of Neil's Barret womenswear, she has won several prizes over the last years and she's one of the most promising designers out there.

Song: Tell her tonight - Franz Ferdinand.

Girls with Allure : Alix, the cherry blossom girl.

As you read this, a new section called, Girls with Allure, is making its debut. From time to time, I will post an interview with a gal talking about her style.

It doesn't occur to me anybody better to start it with than Alix, aka the cherry blossom girl.She has just left the design school and although she lives in Paris, she claims the city doesn't really influences her style. People at the city of light are classic, and narrow-minded concerning trends. However, several internships at Chloé and Alexander McQueen might have influenced the way she dresses.

She defines her style as romantic, but not "too girly". She likes vintage clothing "such as old laces, retro prints or granny knitted jumpers, navy costumes, or 70's trousers and blouses mixed with brands like zara or h&m" and some designer pieces. But she always takes her time to find a good piece always following her heart.

She likes young, fresh and pure girls like those featured in David Hamilton's photography or Sofia Coppola's films. It comes to no surprise her love for baby doll dresses, light and floaty fabrics, and floral prints. Alix, doesn't fancy colourful clothing, and adds lots of accessories to give her outfits a twist: "I use scarves, brooches, long necklaces, vintage bags, and I'm fond of tights which are really practical when somebody is wearing so much skirts and dresses as me!"

What's in your bag? "some magazines of the moment such as Jalouse and the Lula issue number 5, my I-pod, cell phone, a small sketchbook, color pens (I like to make drawing anywhere), lip balm, red lipstick I use for lips and cheeks, vintage wallet, a small umbrella, Paris map (I'm an ignorant citizen), a little candy box , keys, and boyfriend pictures (haha what a sentimental). "

You smell to... "At the moment it's "daisy" by Marc Jacobs, I also like "premier jour" by Nina Ricci and "éclat d'arpège" by Lanvin "

A book, a film, and a song: "my favorite book is "l'écume des jours" by Boris Vian, my favorite film is "the virgin suicides" by Sofia Coppola, and my favorite song is "cherry blossom girl" by Air"

Do you have a fetish? "not at all, but I must admit I'm a bit attracted to shoes."

What is, in your opinion, the best garment ever designed? "the dress! easy and always feminine."

Which beauty product you can't live without? "I'm not using makeup so much, but sometimes my skin turns a little bit red, especially during winter, that's why I'm really keen on the Chanel double perfection fluid foundation, it's so light and soft! I also use many different day and night face creams, the ones from the brand "doux me" are the best on my sense.

Who are your favourite designers? "Sofia Kokosalaki, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, Nicolas Guesquière for Balenciaga, Consuela Castiglioni for Marni, and Stella McCartney. I was a huge fan of Phoebe Philo for Chloé. I'm also fond of the line unique for Topshop."

Do you have a style icon? Who is she/he? "not really, but sometimes I'm a bit inspired by Kirsten Dunst outfits. I've been inspired a lot by movies characters, the very first one being Mathilda (Natalie Portman) in "Leon", and then of course the Lisbon sisters."

What does elegance mean to you? "stay natural...and smile! the clothes make part of the job but not everything!"

Song: Cherry Blossom Girl - Air

Antipodium

Following the example of other shops such as Opening Ceremony, the London based store Antipodium, has launched a clothing line. The aim of the people at Antipodium was to create an affordable collection composed by basic pieces. The abundance of shirt dresses explains its name: Buttons Up.


It's been playing in my head the whole week: La Belle et la Bête - Babyshambles

One year older

Today in an act that could be define as narcissism, I am dedicating this post to myself. But you have to forgive me, because I am turning 20. A new era starts, and hopefully it will be better than my teens.

Here, I was celebrating my first birthday (the quality is poor, I know it, and I apologise for that).

Another childhood pic, wearing my favourite dress at the time.

Radiohead gave me the best gift; their new CD for free.

Song: Unhappy Birthday - The Smiths.

10 favourites - Paris-

Paris deserves ten favourites, basically because I couldn't choose only five. Although the fashion week wasn't very spectacular, the Lanvin show compensate it all.

Givenchy wasn't as good as the previous season-aren't we tired of polka dots?-, but I still can see interesting things.

Junya Watanabe surprised everybody with a collection full of colour and innovative silhouettes. One of my favourites.

Lanvin was, in my opinion, the best show of the week. Albert Elbaz creations haven't looked this good in years.

Stella McCartney clothes were clean, fresh and wearable. I could feel an Ibicencan vibe. I admire how she faces the problem of not doing leather shoes.

MiuMiu looked much better than Prada, this season. Very girly and funny. This top reminds me of a first holy communion dress. I suppose babydolls haven't gone yet.












Gimmick was the word most people use to refer to the Victor&Rolf show. I can't decide whether I like it or not. Kiki de Montparnasse came to mind when I saw that black strapless dress.

The final part of Sonia Rykiel's show was a fairytale. Models had so much fun.

Charles Anastase collection was full of taffeta and volume. The kind of clothes a XVI teenager would wear.This fantastic pic was published at a shaded view of fashion.

I only fancy the very last part of Nina Ricci's collection. The ready-to-wear was too Gothic, and the colours were too dark for a spring/summer line.

I applaud Alexander McQueen and his homage collection to Isabella Blow.












Song: La vie en rose - Edith Piaf (so typical, I know)

No editions

Many designers are looking for innovation taking into account the nature of human psyche. Instead of altering the way we dress...but that's another issue.

Christian Niessen and Nicole Lachelle are giving us the illusion of exclusivity with their new line: No Editions. Each piece is unique, digitally printed and has an identification code.

"no editions originated in a search to produce unique , individual print designs on a variety of garments , from every-day clothing , T-shirts and jeans to silk evening dresses. .... to create single , individually crafted pieces but with the possibility for an industrialized production"

They claim, the differences between patterns are not computerized, but established on their own artistic criteria.

Song: Wake up- Arcade Fire

Polemic scarf

The photo on the right corresponds to the last Isabel Marant show. After reading this two opinions at the fashion spot:

"the scarves are like Balenciaga last season"


"let that god damn awful terrorist scarf die already"

I couldn't help but felt a bit embarrassed of how most people use this Palestinian symbol. I realised a lot of folks wear this scarf without even knowing what it means. It's just another fashion accessory. I dare say a part of them don't even know who Yasser Arafat was, and what the whole Arab-Israeli conflict is about.

Do you think is moral the way people use the Palestinian scarf?

Song: Imagine - John Lennon

Caroline Lange

After a few years of exile by ostracism, knits are coming out of the closet stronger than ever. High-end companies like Louis Vuitton are hiring artisans like Sandra Buckland to turn their knits into works of art.

That is the case of Caroline Lange, a crochet designer based in Brazil, whose ability with crafts allowes her to create amazing pieces. When I found her blog, I was so excited, I decided to prepare a small interview.

Allure- When and why did you start knitting?

Caroline Lange-I started crocheting when I was a little girl, my grandmother taught me. I loved to go to her house so I could learn some more.

A- Was the start very difficult?

C.L.-The start was fun, I was a kid having fun with my grandmother! I started weaving as an adult and that was not so easy, but is was fun too!

A- Do you commercialize your designs or is it just a hobby?


C.L.-It started as a hobby, but my friends started to order things from me, then was the friends of my friends and now I sell my work in Brazil and other countries as well.

A-What garment are you most proud of?

C.L.-It is a beach dress I made for a friend, so pretty and feminine. It takes a long time to make, that was the only one I`ve made and I have to make one for me too.

A- And finally, what would you recommend to someone who is starting now in this industry?

C.L.-I recommend a lot of research and the best model for your work is yourself, I wear o lot of my work and that`s how I started selling.






















Thanks to Caroline for being so supportive with this interview, and to my friend of why fashion? for helping me to formulate the questions.

Song: Luz do Sol - Caetano Veloso

Si Cristóbal levantase la cabeza...

I know I said I wasn't going to do any runway review. But I can't resist, I must tell somebody how upset I feel about the Balenciaga collection. First of all Ghesquière said: "I'm exploring new territory, within the references of the house", are you kidding me? He did the tulip thing in the 2006 winter collection, the futuristic touches were done too, and the shoes remind so much of the ones in the previous collection.

But overall I don't like this collection because it doesn't respect Balenciaga's legacy. The broad shoulders so typical of the 80's, the Chinese prints, the Gothic armour-like silhouettes...When did Cristóbal do all this? Correct if I'm wrong, because I obviously don't have the whole archive in front of me, but I really can't remember anything similar.

Song: Megalomaniac - Incubus

Opening Ceremony clothing line

One of the most avant-garde shops in New York, Opening Ceremony, embarked on the adventure of developing its own label of basics a while ago. When I first saw it, I wasn't much impressed. But, my mouth waters when I see the new clothes for this winter at Creatures of Comfort or Ooga Booga. They should open their own on-line store!

The line is full of plaid fabrics, silk, stripes, cute dresses and wool coats.

Click on the photos to enlarge them.

Song: Muscle Museum - Muse