Friday, 9 October 2009

Diverge

karl-lagerfeld

Now that the s/s 2010 shows are over it is time to analyze them. Unfortunately, with a few honorable exceptions, there was nothing that struck me. Where does that lack of creativity come from? Many will claim it is the economy's fault but I don't buy that excuse. On the contrary, this circumstance should have motivated designers and have made them see all the things one can do with very little.

But undoubtedly the most worrisome thing is the absence of critical spirit. The few bad reviews written were usually directed at intruders like Lindsay Lohan. Not that I do not agree, she must leave as soon as possible, but what about Balmain? or the mental masturbation that was Karl Largerfeld's show for Chanel? It is time to get rid of the untouchability linked to certain designers because it is an example of how simple-minded is the fashion industry to assume that everything they do is fine. Do I really have to remember that progress is only possible with critical and divergent thinking?

Ahora que los desfiles de la temporada primavera/verano 2010 han terminado es hora de hacer balance. Y por desgracia, salvo honrosas excepciones, no ha habido nada que realmente mereciese la pena. ¿A qué se debe tanta falta de creatividad? Muchos pondrán como excusa la crisis ecónomica, pero yo sinceramente no me lo trago. Precisamente debería ser al contrario, ésta circunstancia debería servir como factor motivador y hacer ver a los creadores que con poco se puede hacer mucho.


Pero lo más preocupante es sin duda la predominante falta de espíritu crítico. Las escasas malas opiniones que se vierten van por lo general dirigidas a intrusos como Lindsay Lohan. Y no es que no esté de acuerdo en que no pinta nada y deba irse cuanto antes, sin embargo, ¿qué hay de Balmain? ¿o de la paja mental que fue el desfile de Karl Lagerfeld para Chanel? Ya va siendo hora de eliminar ese rasgo de intocables que acompaña siempre a ciertos diseñadores y que es una muestra de cuan simplona es la industria de la moda al presuponer que todo lo que hagan va a estar bien. ¿De verdad es necesario que recuerde que el progreso sólo es posible con pensamientos críticos y divergentes?


Credit: Garance Doré

12 comments:

atelier said...

totally agree nen... y lo peor es pensar en lo que nos queda, supongo que la industria es demasiado poderosa como para criticar a sus titanes y no ver tu cabeza, inmediatamente separada de tu cuerpo...

Tamara said...

Cierto. No he podido ver todos los desfiles pero he leído algunas críticas, de los que me han parecido medio dudosos y eran como "ni sí, ni no, sino todo lo contrario". Vamos, que nadie se mojaba al final.

Anonymous said...

The only Chanel collection in recent memory that I found inspiring at all was the recent resort collection shown outdoors in Venice. But I suppose as long as things continue to sell well, nothing much will change creatively.

joanne said...

i haven't been following the shows so what on earth is happening in that photo?!

Allure said...

Joanne: Chanel's show took place in a barn and at the end Lara Stone, Freja Behja and a male model (I can't recall his name) simulated a ménage à trois.

Lesley said...

Balmain was so disappointing for me, I was expecting an real appeal with its constant 'sexiness' and 'allure' towards woman but left little to desire. As with Chanel and a lot of the designers I like to keep my on... everything seemed to reminisce of last years trends and styles... really too simplified for my taste.

Well, maybe next year, eh?

min it said...

...la caducidad del negocio de la moda es su peor enemigo, la necesidad de reinventarse tan rápido genera épocas de sequía y locura creativa...es sólo una temporada más, o dos...y de nuevo empezará a brillar...

http://minitsteer.blogspot.com/

Navare said...

I think creativity should definitely be more intense during financially deprived times. I know this is true for me, and I don't understand why experienced designers are suffering from a lack of it. Good observation!

My New Favourite Thing said...

Wonderfully written and very well observed. I think there's definitely been a lull after the initial surge of creativity that came just after we were said to be in the midst of recession. Galliano said it was a credit crunch, not a creative crunch and it seemed to be an accurate maxim at the time. Maybe the reality has set in now in many designers' ateliers.

And you're absolutely right, I love Karl as much as the next person but it's ridiculous to think he can do no wrong.

Erin Taylor said...

I love Chanel but I have to say I wasn't all that inspired!

Lluviaschick said...

estoy totalmente de acuerdo contigo... balmain es casi tan malo como lohan para Ungaro (por cierto y ablando mal, k cagada meterla en el ajo), lo k lagerfeld hace con chanel ya no tiene justificacion, no entiendo la fascinacion por alexander wang, miuccia me a decepcionado mucho con sus dos colecciones faltas de espiritu...casi lo mismo con commes des garçons... y louis vuitton?? el desfile fue una autentica broma!!!

yo no creo k sea la crisis, hace falta algo de reciclaje... de momento me alegro de k aya vuelto phoebe philo aunque su primera coleccion para celine no haya sido una maravilla.... esperaremos a la proxima

foolfashion said...

A mí tampoco me gustó nada la colección de Chanel. Y no entiendo por qué recibió tan buenas críticas.

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