Mociun

The simplicity of Mociun's clothes makes me want them more than -hardly- anything in this world. The ability of mixing old and new amazes me. The design is truly fresh, but always keeping a traditional sense of aesthetics.

The brand and its distinctive prints are the result of Caitlin Mociun textile design studies at the Rhode Island School.

Everything is printed and sewed by hand, and I am afraid, this isn't going to change. Mociun doesn't want the brand to get any bigger and that means her clothes are pretty difficult to find.

Song: Good woman - Cat Power

A.P.C. Madras

I was so happy to see an A.P.C. newsletter when I opened my mailbox this morning, I almost jumped out of my chair. The reason of this enthusiasm was the new A.P.C. Madras collection. Jean Touitou collaborated once again with Jessica Odgen to create a line full of fresh and wearable summery garments.

Blame the calico prints or the fact that the clothes are made in India, but this line has a hippie vibe that I can't help but love.

Here are some of my favourite pieces (even thought, I'd buy the whole collection if I could!) :

Song: Dead end street - The Kinks

Hippie

Once again hippie style is experiencing a revival. If I remember well the last one was the Boho era in 2004, not so far away if you ask me. Blame it or not on lack of inspiration, but designers decided it was comeback time and invaded the summer collections with fringes, floaty flowery dresses, high-waisted pants and cross body bags.

Song: Me and Bobby McGee - Janis Joplin

Mayle

Mayle is well known for creating feminine collections. The line has, in general, a vintage vibe and her designer Jane Mayle pays special attentions to details and fabrics.

The new collection doesn't disappoint, and is full of lace, flowers and silk. "Spring's Mexican funeral theme was inspired by a viewing of the Manet exhibition at Moma. Over the course of only eight or ten canvases, Manet sought to paint an event - the execution of the Emperor Maximillian- of which he had only heard second hand accounts. Alongside these exhibited paintings were photographs that showed a very different reality and exposed the extent to which Manet had fictionalized the facts, and in true painterly fashion, privileged storytelling and composition over truth. Choosing to gloss over the more maudlin aspects of this event and have my own way with story, I imagined a series of Mexican widows, one more beautiful in mourning than the next, who might gather at the graveside of such a man, stand next to each other and alongside generals, bandits and a cross-section of every other sort of Mexican citizen. Not only could my concoction allow for the inappropriate intermingling of señorita with sergeant, but a normally solemn event could be invaded by a general feeling of festivity and the colours of a piñata could run riot."

Song: Mexico-Incubus

"Wouldn't it be a lovely headline: "Live is Beautiful" on a New York Times?"

Don't be mislead by the awful weather, spring is already here. You probably don't have the guts to venture outside , neither do I.

However after seeing these polaroids at a slow boat to mediocrity I can't help but want a closet full of flowery light dresses.These are from the Swedish label Permanent Vacation. Overall, I love the aesthetic chosen to present the clothes, very fresh and summery.

Song: Pink moon - Nick Drake

Vintage 501

The idea of wearing boyfriend jeans never appealed to me. Not because I don't like them, I do, but I've always thought you need to be really skinny to look good in them.

However, lately I'm thinking of getting a pair of vintage Levi's 501 to wear with slouchy striped sweaters on my lazy days. Furthermore, Lulu of Everybody is ugly* or Alexander Wang prove you can stay chic with baggy jeans.

*Thanks to Picky picks pics

Song: Drain you-Nirvana

Gingham

I don't know why but I feel nostalgic for gingham. It's a fun fabric, very versatile and fresh, just perfect for summer. In pants, dresses or skirts, it's all the same; gingham is the fabric to wear this season.

Song: Little yellow spider - Devendra Banhart.

Chloë for Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony has finally unveiled the complete collection designed by Chloë Sevigny. The line is composed of forty pieces in a price range that goes from $150 to $500 for a jacket. Let's face it, it's way expensive. I can understand that the original liberty prints are not cheap, but $365 for a chambray dress is way too much.

Apart from that, I'm in love with the collection. Inspired by her own wardrobe at junior school, the line is full of liberty prints, gingham(I'm currently obsessed with it), tough wedges, leopard print and high-waisted trousers and skirts.

If you have some money left to splurge on one of this beautiful pieces, they are available at Opening Ceremony, Barneys, Colette and Dover Street Market.

Song: Sunny - Morrissey

Sheer tights

One of my favourite trends for next spring are sheer tights. They're a refreshing alternative to the long reign of opaque hosiery. Not to mention the sexy component.

Song: The angry mob - Kaiser Chiefs

Clubmaster

We're on January and I'm already thinking on the pair of sunglasses I'm going to get for summer. It's crazy, I know. Blame the climate change, and the advanced spring we're enjoying here.

I've been considering getting a pair of A.P.C. sunnies, but they aren't available in the web. I also like the pair Chloë Sevigny designed for Linda Farrow Vintage, but I am afraid, the price will be far from my budget. So, following the nerd/retro trend, my final choice is the Ray-Ban Clubmaster's with black and gold frame.

Song: Mushaboom - Feist.

Old English school blazer

For his latest winter collection, Ghesquière retrieved the old English school blazers. More recently, different fashion weeks (specially New York) proclaimed the long jacket as one of the biggest trends for next spring.

My personal choice is the classic navy blazer with gold buttons, long enough to cover the hips. Ashley Olsen, always ahead of trends, was seen with one in 2004. And now, Vogue Paris stylist Geraldine Saglio and Alexa Chung can't stop wearing theirs. The key is to keep the rest of the outfit young and fresh considering the seriousness of the blazer. Try with high-waisted jeans, simple white tees or plaid shirts. Ralph Lauren kids is an easy and affordable option.

Song: Bittersweet symphony - The Verve

Coolhunting

The spring/summer collections seem now, far away. With a bit of help from time and the perspective that it gives me, I predict what we will be wearing next season.

Nerds are taking their revenge after years consigned to ostracism. Those of us who don't need prescription eyeglasses will be praying for a pair.

From left to right : Luella and Rachel Comey.

Show your waist! It's time to train your abs. Whether you like it or not, this 90's -and also 50's- trend is coming back. But remember to follow the runway advice and wear those short tops only with skirts.

Doo Ri, Christopher Kane and 3.1. Phillip Lim.

During the different fashion weeks we saw sheer fabrics everywhere. Great for layering, this cloth will protect us from the changeable weather, typical of the spring months.

Three as four, Preen and Rodarte.

Structured shoulders. Build your own time machine, and move back to the 80's, because shoulder pads are back. Difficult to work well, the key is to keep the rest of your outfit as simple as possible.

YSL, Balenciaga and Carine Roitfeld in Martin Margiela.

Liberty prints. Don't go for the -I'm a good girl- total look and wear your liberty dress with torn tights and biker boots.

Luella, Chloë Sevigny in her clothing line for Opening Ceremony and Junya Watanabe.

Song: Woman - Wolfmother

Note: This is just an overall view; some of this predictions won't be fulfilled, and some other aren't even featured in this post -e.g. long blazers- .

Txell Miras

I didn't covered any of the two Spanish fashion weeks, because I think they didn't worth it. But Txell Miras is the exception to that rule. Her clothes have something that attracts you, and the good tailoring helps.

Moreover, she has an impressive background. She is the designer of Neil's Barret womenswear, she has won several prizes over the last years and she's one of the most promising designers out there.

Song: Tell her tonight - Franz Ferdinand.

10 favourites - Paris-

Paris deserves ten favourites, basically because I couldn't choose only five. Although the fashion week wasn't very spectacular, the Lanvin show compensate it all.

Givenchy wasn't as good as the previous season-aren't we tired of polka dots?-, but I still can see interesting things.

Junya Watanabe surprised everybody with a collection full of colour and innovative silhouettes. One of my favourites.

Lanvin was, in my opinion, the best show of the week. Albert Elbaz creations haven't looked this good in years.

Stella McCartney clothes were clean, fresh and wearable. I could feel an Ibicencan vibe. I admire how she faces the problem of not doing leather shoes.

MiuMiu looked much better than Prada, this season. Very girly and funny. This top reminds me of a first holy communion dress. I suppose babydolls haven't gone yet.












Gimmick was the word most people use to refer to the Victor&Rolf show. I can't decide whether I like it or not. Kiki de Montparnasse came to mind when I saw that black strapless dress.

The final part of Sonia Rykiel's show was a fairytale. Models had so much fun.

Charles Anastase collection was full of taffeta and volume. The kind of clothes a XVI teenager would wear.This fantastic pic was published at a shaded view of fashion.

I only fancy the very last part of Nina Ricci's collection. The ready-to-wear was too Gothic, and the colours were too dark for a spring/summer line.

I applaud Alexander McQueen and his homage collection to Isabella Blow.












Song: La vie en rose - Edith Piaf (so typical, I know)

Si Cristóbal levantase la cabeza...

I know I said I wasn't going to do any runway review. But I can't resist, I must tell somebody how upset I feel about the Balenciaga collection. First of all Ghesquière said: "I'm exploring new territory, within the references of the house", are you kidding me? He did the tulip thing in the 2006 winter collection, the futuristic touches were done too, and the shoes remind so much of the ones in the previous collection.

But overall I don't like this collection because it doesn't respect Balenciaga's legacy. The broad shoulders so typical of the 80's, the Chinese prints, the Gothic armour-like silhouettes...When did Cristóbal do all this? Correct if I'm wrong, because I obviously don't have the whole archive in front of me, but I really can't remember anything similar.

Song: Megalomaniac - Incubus

Fab Five (Milan edition)

Milan fashion week has ended, and I am doing the Fab Five thing, choosing my 5 favourite looks from all the collections. I admit Milan fashion week is my least favourite. I can't stand the tackiness of Cavalli, Dolce & Gabanna and Dsquared2. And don't you think, Prada - aka don't believe the hype- is so overrated?

This spring more than ever, and thanks to the work of Giles Deacon for Daks, we will be surrounded by flowers.
















Consuelo Castiglione respected the classic Marni silhouette, adding her distinctive touch and covering this top with petals.

Raf Simmons is doing a incredible job with Jil Sander. Honouring the classic clean lines of the label, he makes the difference with colours: magenta, royal blue, orange...

Alberta Ferreti inspired by the Ancient Greece created the most beautiful collection.

Although the collection didn't respect Gianfranco Ferré's legacy, I do believe he would have favoured this dress.

Song: Cuore - Rita Pavone